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Building Performance video

BUILDING PERFORMANCE

BUFFALO, NY
 
Attic insulation installation to improve the building performance.

Building Performance Solutions in Buffalo, NY

  • Building performance improvements consist of installed products or modified building dynamics that help improve the buildings efficiency and occupant comfort.
  • With a proper building diagnostic test before and after improvements to the buildings performance we can show with proven data that your home or business is more efficient saving you money and more comfortable increasing your happiness and wellness!
  • Our certified experts will take you through a specific analysis of your building and suggest the best improvements and calculate the return on investment.
An insulation contractor inspecting a home ventilation system.

Major Benefits of Proper Insulation in Buffalo, NY

  • Also known as the "Building Envelope", insulation are all of the elements of the outer shell that maintain a dry, heated, or cooled indoor environment and facilitate its climate control.
  • Building envelope design is a specialized area of architectural and engineering practice that draws from all areas of building science and indoor climate control.
  • Protection from weather and climate
  • Comfortable indoor air quality
  • Durability and efficiency
  • Lowered energy bills
  • Moisture control
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A contractor performing an attic spray foam insulation installation.

Average Pricing for Building Performance Improvements in Buffalo, NY

  • You can expect to pay, on average, between $1,500 to $8,000 for building performance improvements by a professional contractor company in Buffalo, NY.
  • Spray Foam Insulation - $1,800 to $6,000
  • Air Sealing Penetrations with Foam- $350 to $800
  • Air Sealing Penetrations with Caulk - $350 to $800
  • Foam Board Insulation - $1,800 to $6,000
  • Fiberglass Blown Insulation - $800 to $3,500
  • Cellulose Blown Insulation - $800 to $3,500
  • Fiberglass Batt Insulation - $400 to $3,500
  • Rockwool Batt Insulation - $400 to $3,500
  • Ventilation Baffles - $400 to $800
  • Bathroom Fan Exhaust Termination Kits - $400 to $800
  • Soffit Vents Panels - $400 to $800
  • Roof Ridge Vent - $400 to $1,200
  • Roof Box Vents - $400 to $1,200
  • Siding Gable Vents - $400 to $2,000
*Cost data is based upon historical average/typical costs. Each project has unique aspects, costs will vary.
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A homeowner opening a window because of improper ventilation.

Common Health Risks & Hazards of Improper Ventilation in Buffalo, NY

  • Ventilation is mainly used to control indoor air quality by diluting and displacing indoor pollutants and moisture. While your house does not need to breathe, it does need to be able to dry out. The tighter the building the better systems need to be in place to mechanically or statically ventilate the space.
  • Almost all the byproducts that happen inside an occupied house relate to moisture being released. Not only does one have to worry about this moisture, but also what the weather is like outside.
  • Over exposure to VOC's
  • Carbon monoxide poisoning
  • Corrosion of metal
  • Foul odors
  • Mold
  • High energy bills
  • Respiratory health issues
  • Structural decay
  • Damage to building materials (drywall)
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BUILDING SCIENCE – DOES MY BUILDING NEED TO BREATHE?

The simple answer is no, only living creatures like you, your family & pets do. The catch is that we also have to consider that not only do we need air but we have to have a way to eliminate or exhaust the contaminants from the space. For example:
  • Not only do we, but also our pets sweat & release odors we also exhale carbon dioxide & moisture into the air when we do breathe.
  • Taking showers, having plants inside, cooking, and other activities can add to not only the moisture in the air, but even some more interesting odors.
  • For those with combustion appliances (or worse yet a vent-less heater) inside the house, now we also have a device that not only wants to consume the same oxygen we need but it produces even more moisture, carbon dioxide & occasionally carbon monoxide (aka the silent killer).
  • VOC’s & others odors come from not only everyday items like pens & hairspray, but also certain building materials off gas for a while…
Is it any wonder that many people consider the outdoor air as fresher than indoor air, or that in many cases it really is?

WHAT DOES MY BUILDING NEED TO DO?

While your house in Buffalo, NY does not need to breathe, it does need to be able to dry out. As you can see above almost all the byproducts that happen inside an occupied house relate to moisture being released. Not only does one have to worry about this moisture, but also what the weather is like outside. This leads us to an interesting issue as many will point to historic homes and state that one of the big reasons that they are still standing is due to “natural ventilation / their ability to breathe.” To top that off, many will claim that by us rigidly air-sealing everything up, we have turned our houses into huge petri dishes & invented sick-building syndrome.

In some ways they are right, as many older homes are still standing because they had the ability to dry out quickly. While leaving things open in older homes was perfectly fine for a house built back then, it simply won’t fly with all our modern conveniences like doors that fully shut, running water, air conditioning, steam showers, commercial style cooktops, or many people’s acceptable level of comfort. It always helps to remember that when you change one thing in a house it affects a whole host of other items.

ATTIC VENTILATION IN BUFFALO, NY

At first it may seem odd to add insulation for warmth and then purposely allow cold air to enter the attic through vents, but this combination is the key to a durable and energy-efficient home. Here's why: in the winter, allowing a natural flow of outdoor air to ventilate the attic helps keep it cold, which reduces the potential for ice damming (snow that melts off a roof from an attic that is too warm and then re-freezes at the gutters, causing an ice dam that can damage the roof). Proper insulation and air sealing also keep attics cold in winter by blocking the entry of heat and moist air from below. In the summer, natural air flow in a well-vented attic moves super-heated air out of the attic, protecting roof shingles and removing moisture. The insulation will resist heat transfer into the house.

The most common mistake homeowners make when installing insulation is to block the flow of air at the eaves. NEVER COVER ATTIC SOFFIT VENTS WITH INSULATION — use rafter vents and soffit vents to maintain airflow.

Attic Fan Ventilation
Attic fans are intended to cool hot attics by drawing in cooler outside air from attic vents (soffit and gable) and pushing hot air to the outside. However, if your attic has blocked soffit vents and is not well-sealed from the rest of the house, attic fans will suck cool conditioned air up out of the house and into the attic. This will use more energy and make your air conditioner work harder, which will increase your summer utility bill.

*You don't want your unfinished attic cooled by your air conditioner. To prevent this, follow the air sealing and insulation strategies and make sure the attic is well-ventilated using passive vents and natural air flow.

Baffle (Rafter) Vents
To completely cover your attic floor with insulation out to the eaves we need to install rafter vents (also called insulation baffles). Complete coverage of the attic floor along with sealing air leaks will ensure you get the best performance from your insulation. Rafter vents ensure the soffit vents are clear and there is a channel for outside air to move into the attic at the soffits and out through the gable or ridge vent. Rafter vents come in 4-foot lengths and 14-1/2 and 22-1/2 inch widths for different rafter spacings. Rafter vents should be placed in your attic ceiling in between the rafters at the point where your attic ceiling meets your attic floor. Once they are in place, we can then place the batts or blankets, or blow insulation, right out to the very edge of the attic floor. Note: Blown insulation may require an additional block to prevent insulation from being blown into the soffit. A piece of rigid foam board placed on the outer edge of the top plate works very well for this.

BATHROOM VENTILATION IN BUFFALO, NY

Bathroom ventilation systems are designed to exhaust odors and moist air to the home's exterior. Typical systems consist of a ceiling fan unit connected to a duct that terminates at the roof. Bathroom ventilation fans should be inspected for dust buildup that can impede air flow. Particles of moisture-laden animal dander and lint are attracted to the fan because of its static charge. Ventilation systems should be installed in all bathrooms. This includes bathrooms with windows, since windows will not be opened during the winter in cold climates.

The following conditions indicate insufficient bathroom ventilation:
  • moisture stains on walls or ceilings
  • corrosion of metal
  • visible mold on walls or ceilings
  • peeling paint or wallpaper
  • frost on windows; and
  • high levels of humidity.
The most common defect related to bathroom ventilation systems is improper termination of the duct. Vents must terminate at the home exterior.

The most common improper terminations locations are:
  • mid-level in the attic. These are easy to spot
  • beneath the insulation. You need to remember to look. The duct may terminate beneath the insulation or there may be no duct installed; and
  • under attic vents. The duct must terminate at the home exterior, not just under it.
Improperly terminated ventilation systems may appear to work fine from inside the bathroom, so you may have to look in the attic or on the roof. Sometimes, poorly installed ducts will loosen or become disconnected at joints or connections.

Ducts that leak or terminate in attics can cause problems from condensation. Warm, moist air will condense on cold attic framing, insulation and other materials. This condition has the potential to cause health and/or decay problems from mold, or damage to building materials, such as drywall. Moisture also reduces the effectiveness of thermal insulation.

Even though mold growth may take place in the attic, mold spores can be sucked into the living areas of a residence by low air pressure. Low air pressure is usually created by the expulsion of household air from exhaust fans in bathrooms, dryers, kitchens and heating equipment. Ventilation ducts must be made from appropriate materials and oriented effectively in order to ensure that stale air is properly exhausted.

Ventilation ducts must:
  • terminate outdoors. Ducts should never terminate within the building envelope.
  • contain a screen or louvered (angled) slats at its termination to prevent bird, rodent and insect entry.
  • be as short and straight as possible and avoid turns. Longer ducts allow more time for vapor to condense and also force the exhaust fan to work harder.
  • be insulated, especially in cooler climates. Cold ducts encourage condensation.
  • protrude at least several inches from the roof.
  • be equipped with a roof termination cap that protects the duct from the elements; and
  • be installed according to the manufacturer's recommendations.
  • The following tips are helpful, although not required. Ventilation ducts should:
  • be made from inflexible metal, PVC, or other rigid material. Unlike dryer exhaust vents, they should not droop; and
  • have smooth interiors. Ridges will encourage vapor to condense, allowing water to back-flow into the exhaust fan or leak through joints onto vulnerable surfaces.
Above all else, a bathroom ventilation fan should be connected to a duct capable of venting water vapor and odors into the outdoors. Mold growth within the bathroom or attic is a clear indication of improper ventilation that must be corrected in order to avoid structural decay and respiratory health issues.

HEAT RECOVERY VENTILATOR (HRV) OR ENERGY RECOVERY VENTILATOR (ERV) IN BUFFALO, NY

Whether natural or mechanical, homes need ventilation. They are no longer built to leak heat and moisture the way they used to be; we now build them as airtight as we can. This makes mechanical ventilation essential in a high performance home. How much fresh air is required and the best way to provide it are important issues. Energy recovery from exhaust air is becoming common place in cold regions, and two types of equipment can do this- an HRV (Heat Recovery Ventilation) and an ERV (Energy Recovery Ventilation).

Both HRVs and ERVs are somewhat new to mainstream home construction, and can often be confused. In an effort to clear that up, we will first explore why ventilation is so crucial, then explain the options and their best applications. Up until the last few decades, houses were so leaky that sufficient cold dry air seeped in to meet the needs of occupants, and ensure homes had no moisture damage. These houses were said to 'breathe', but that would be like breathing through your skin instead of through your nose. It meant that cold, dry winter air would need to be warmed as well as humidified, while hot and humid air would enter in the summer.

Nowadays, in the name of energy efficiency, houses are built to much higher standards of air tightness, so a mechanical ventilation system is essential for the following reasons:
  • To provide oxygen for occupants since people deplete oxygen as they breath. In a reasonably airtight home with no ventilation you would feel the effects of that in quite short order.
  • To remove contaminants – because along with the toxins emitted by the human body (ammonia, benzene, carbon monoxide and methane to name but a few), chemicals in building materials and furnishings continue to off-gas for many years after installation.
  • To remove the excess humidity generated by normal human activity in order to ensure building durability and efficiency in heating.

HOW MUCH FRESH AIR IS ENOUGH?

It is very difficult for humans to detect low levels of contaminants in their air, even when they represent a health hazard. An ideal ventilation system would include sensors that could detect the presence of excessive humidity and all harmful agents in order to provide fresh air accordingly, but no such system exists yet.

Therefore, our best option at present is to err on the side of safety, and provide a minimum fresh outdoor air supply at all times. Most building codes rely on the *ASHRAE standard 62.2 (or some variation of it) to establish ventilation norms for homes.*ASHRAE (American Society of Heating, Refrigeration and Air-Conditioning Engineers) is the most respected and authoritative source for interior air quality standards. ASHRAE 62.1 and 2 are the recognized standards for ventilation and indoor air quality (IAQ).

CHOOSING BETWEEN AN HRV AND AN ERV

Heat Recovery Ventilation (HRV) is a system that uses the heat in stale exhaust air to preheat incoming fresh air. This reduces the energy required to bring outside air up to ambient room temperature. Similar to the human breathing system as mentioned above, this exchange of air is performed in a single area of the home, the lung of your home, your ventilator core. Note that outgoing air and incoming air never mix in the heat recovery process; they simply pass in separate channels in the ventilator core, allowing an exchange of heat through conduction.

The 'efficiency rate' of an HRV unit determines how much energy will be saved by using that particular device. Although it requires the operation of a fan on a continual basis, the energy recovered from the inside air is many times that of the energy required for the fan. Typical efficiencies range from 55% to 75%, but some extremely efficient models are rated as high as 93% efficiency. At present, these latter units are significantly more expensive and only available from Europe. However, when you factor the value of energy savings over the unit’s full life cycle, shipping these costly units across the ocean can still make it a financially and ecologically sound investment.

Energy (or Enthalpy) Recovery Ventilation (ERV) goes a little further than the HRV scheme, as this type of system also captures some of the humidity in the air to keep it on the same side of the thermal envelope that it came from. So in winter, the system transfers the humidity from the air being extracted to the incoming fresh (and dry) air to help keep the ambient humidity level at a reasonable value (between 40 and 60%) at all times.

In summer, the humidity transfer reverses and the humidity in outside air is removed before it is injected into the home. This saves energy by reducing the load on your air conditioning system and/or dehumidifier. A high efficiency of humidity transfer would be around 70% but this value depends on the actual humidity on either side of the envelope.

One important note is that whatever you choose for your needs, there will always be a power on/off switch. If your system is too noisy, you will likely turn it off for long periods of time even if you really need it. Ensure you have a quiet system and that it is installed properly to avoid the temptation of turning off a piece of equipment that represents both a financial and health investment.

WHICH ONE IS RIGHT FOR ME? HRV OR ERV?

The best option between an HRV and an ERV depends on your climate and specific needs. If your house is too humid in winter (above 60% RH) then an HRV is the better choice, as it would surely get rid of excess humidity while an ERV would tend to keep it at a high level.

If the opposite is true and your house is too dry in winter, then an ERV would be a better choice as it helps retain humidity, eliminating the need (and cost) for you to generate it through other means. In summertime, the use of an HRV will usually increase the humidity level inside your home, so an ERV is better in hot and humid zones. But a dedicated dehumidifier will likely do the trick much better. At the very least, the ERV will lower the load on the air conditioning system, even if it can’t keep up with the high humidity level on the outside.

So, in the end there is not one right choice. It depends on your climate, your lifestyle and your home. In a perfect world we would have one of each, short of that we are left to make a choice.

One thing is for certain though, whichever you choose, an airtight home with an ERV or HRV is an evolutionary leap beyond the leaky houses of the 20th century, so if you are building or have a reasonably airtight house, don't lose sleep over which one to get – just get one.

BUILDING SCIENCE – THE BUILDING ENVELOPE

A building envelope is the physical separator between the conditioned and unconditioned environment of a building including the resistance to air, water, heat, light, and noise transfer.

The building envelope is all of the elements of the outer shell that maintain a dry, heated, or cooled indoor environment and facilitate its climate control. Building envelope design is a specialized area of architectural and engineering practice that draws from all areas of building science and indoor climate control.

The many functions of the building envelope can be separated into three categories:
  • Support (to resist and transfer mechanical loads)
  • Control (the flow of matter and energy of all types)
  • Finish (to meet human desires on the inside and outside)
  • The control function is at the core of good performance, and in practice focuses, in order of importance, on rain control, air control, heat control, and vapor control.

AIR BARRIER SYSTEM - AIR AND VAPOR CONTROL

Control of air flow is important to ensure indoor air quality, control energy consumption, avoid condensation (and thus help ensure durability), and to provide comfort. Control of air movement includes flow through the enclosure (the assembly of materials that perform this function is termed the air barrier system) or through components of the building envelope (interstitial) itself, as well as into and out of the interior space, (which can affect building insulation performance greatly). Hence, air control includes the control of wind washing (cold air passing through insulation) and convective loops which are air movements within a wall or ceiling that may result in 10% to 20% of the heat loss alone.

The physical components of the envelope include the foundation, roof, walls, doors, windows, ceiling, and their related barriers and insulation. The dimensions, performance and compatibility of materials, fabrication process and details, connections and interactions are the main factors that determine the effectiveness and durability of the building enclosure system.

Common measures of the effectiveness of a building envelope include physical protection from weather and climate (comfort), indoor air quality (hygiene and public health), durability and energy efficiency. In order to achieve these objectives, all building enclosure systems must include a solid structure, a drainage plane, an air barrier, a thermal barrier, and may include a vapor barrier. Moisture control (e.g. damp proofing) is essential in all climates, but cold climates and hot-humid climates are especially demanding.

THERMAL ENVELOPE

The thermal envelope, or heat flow control layer, is part of a building envelope but may be in a different location such as in a ceiling. The difference can be illustrated by understanding that an insulated attic floor is the primary thermal control layer between the inside of the house and the exterior while the entire roof (from the surface of the shingles to the interior paint finish on the ceiling) comprises the building envelope.

Building envelope thermography involves using an infrared camera to view temperature anomalies on the interior and exterior surfaces of the structure. Analysis of infrared images can be useful in identifying moisture issues from water intrusion, or interstitial condensation.

INFRARED THERMOGRAPHY BUFFALO, NY

Thermal infrared imaging is a valuable tool to perform non-destructive qualitative tests and to investigate buildings envelope thermal-energy behavior. The assessment of envelope thermal insulation, ventilation, air leakages, and HVAC performance can be implemented through the analysis of each thermogram corresponding to an objects surface temperature. Thermography also allows the identification of thermal bridges in buildings’ envelope that, together with windows and doors, constitute one of the weakest components increasing thermal losses. Infrared thermography and the proposed quantitative methodology were applied to assess the energy losses due to thermal bridges. The main results show that the procedure confirms to be a reliable tool to quantify the incidence of thermal bridges in the envelope thermal losses.

HOME ENERGY AUDIT BUFFALO, NY

Home energy audit is often the first step in making your home more efficient. An audit can help you assess how much energy your home uses and evaluate what measures you can take to improve efficiency. But remember, audits alone don't save energy. You need to implement the recommended improvements. ENERGY STAR provides extensive information about home improvement projects to enhance energy efficiency, lower utility bills, and increase comfort.

COMMON INSULATION TYPES

  • FIBERGLASS BATT AND ROLL INSULATION - the most common and widely available type of insulation comes in the form of batts or rolls. It consists of flexible fibers, most commonly fiberglass. You also can find batts and rolls made from mineral (rock and slag) wool, plastic fibers, and natural fibers, such as cotton and sheep's wool. Standard fiberglass blankets and batts have a thermal resistance or R-value between R-2.9 and R-3.8 per inch of thickness. High-performance (medium-density and high-density) fiberglass blankets and batts have R-values between R-3.7 and R-4.3 per inch of thickness. See the table below for an overview of these characteristics.
  • CONCRETE BLOCK INSULATION - Concrete blocks are used to build home foundations and walls, and there are several ways to insulate them. If the cores aren’t filled with steel and concrete for structural reasons, they can be filled with insulation, which raises the average wall R-value. Field studies and computer simulations have shown, however, that core filling of any type offers little fuel savings, because heat is readily conducted through the solid parts of the walls such as block webs and mortar joints. It is more effective to install insulation over the surface of the blocks either on the exterior or interior of the foundation walls. Placing insulation on the exterior has the added advantage of containing the thermal mass of the blocks within the conditioned space, which can moderate indoor temperatures.
  • FOAM BOARD OR RIGID FOAM - Rigid panels of insulation can be used to insulate almost any part of your home, from the roof down to the foundation. They provide good thermal resistance, and reduce heat conduction through structural elements, like wood and steel studs. The most common types of materials used in making foam board include polystyrene, polyisocyanurate (polyiso), and polyurethane.
  • INSULATING CONCRETE FORMS - Insulating concrete forms (ICFs) are basically forms for poured concrete walls, which remain as part of the wall assembly. This system creates walls with a high thermal resistance, typically about R-20. Even though ICF homes are constructed using concrete, they look like traditional stick-built homes. ICF systems consist of interconnected foam boards or interlocking, hollow-core foam insulation blocks. Foam boards are fastened together using plastic ties. Along with the foam boards, steel rods (rebar) can be added for reinforcement before the concrete is poured. When using foam blocks, steel rods are often used inside the hollow cores to strengthen the walls.
  • LOOSE-FILL AND BLOWN-IN INSULATION - Loose-fill insulation consists of small particles of fiber, foam, or other materials. These small particles form an insulation material that can conform to any space without disturbing structures or finishes. This ability to conform makes loose-fill insulation well suited for retrofits and locations where it would be difficult to install other types of insulation. The most common types of materials used for loose-fill insulation include cellulose, fiberglass, and mineral (rock or slag) wool. All of these materials are produced using recycled waste materials. Cellulose is primarily made from recycled newsprint. Most fiberglass contains 20% to 30% recycled glass. Mineral wool is usually produced from 75% post-industrial recycled content. The table below compares these three materials.
  • RADIANT BARRIERS AND REFLECTIVE INSULATION SYSTEMS - Unlike most common insulation systems, which resist conductive and sometimes convective heat flow, radiant barriers and reflective insulation work by reflecting radiant heat away from the living space. Radiant barriers are installed in homes, usually in attics, primarily to reduce summer heat gain, which helps lower cooling costs. Reflective insulation incorporates radiant barriers, typically highly reflective aluminum foils, into insulation systems that can include a variety of backings, such as kraft paper, plastic film, polyethylene bubbles, or cardboard, as well as thermal insulation materials.
  • RIGID FIBER BOARD INSULATION - Rigid fiber or fibrous board insulation consists of either fiberglass or mineral wool material and is primarily used for insulating air ducts in homes. It is also used when there's a need for insulation that can withstand high temperatures. These products come in a range of thicknesses from 1 inch to 2.5 inches, and provide an R-value of about R-4 per inch of thickness.
  • SPRAYED-FOAM AND FOAMED-IN-PLACE INSULATION - Liquid foam insulation materials can be sprayed, foamed-in-place, injected, or poured. Some installations can have twice the R-value per inch of traditional batt insulation, and can fill even the smallest cavities, creating an effective air barrier. Available liquid foam insulation materials include: Cementitious, Phenolic, Polyisocyanurate (polyiso), Polyurethane. Some less common types include Icynene foam and Tripolymer foam. Icynene foam can be either sprayed or injected, which makes it the most versatile. It also has good resistance to both air and water intrusion. Tripolymer foam—a water-soluble foam—is injected into wall cavities. It has excellent resistance to fire and air intrusion.
  • STRUCTURAL INSULATED PANELS - Structural insulated panels (SIPs) are prefabricated insulated structural elements for use in building walls, ceilings, floors, and roofs. They provide superior and uniform insulation compared to more traditional construction methods (stud or "stick frame"), offering energy savings of 12% to 14%. When installed properly, SIPs also result in a more airtight dwelling, which makes a house quieter and more comfortable. SIPs not only have high R-values but also high strength-to-weight ratios. A SIP typically consists of 4- to 8-inch-thick foam board insulation sandwiched between two sheets of oriented strand board (OSB) or other structural facing materials. Manufacturers can usually customize the exterior and interior sheathing materials to meet customer requirements. The facing is glued to the foam core, and the panel is then either pressed or placed in a vacuum to bond the sheathing and core together. Because it is so airtight, a well-built SIP structure requires controlled fresh-air ventilation for safety, health, and performance, and to meet many building codes. A well-designed, installed, and properly operated mechanical ventilation system can also help prevent indoor moisture problems, which is important for achieving the energy-saving benefits of an SIP structure.
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